Remeniscent of a Sydney-style Asian fusion restaurant – think Ms G’s or Longrain – it’s no surprise that Kurobuta is run by an Aussie. After a stellar career in London, Australian chef Scott Hallsworth is going from strength to strength with Kurobuta winning many industry accolades.
After a long day in the field, filling the good folk of the Belgravia Dog Show with booze (the people watching was sublime, especially the woman who accidentally ate a dog biscuit thinking it was a gourmet cookie), we are starving. Having sampled the miso wings from Kurobuta at the Taste of London festival the day before, I was excited for more.
Boldly rocking up on a Saturday evening to the King’s Road restaurant (their original is in Marble Arch) with no reservation, and no patience to wait, I say “We don’t mind sitting at the bar” and we’re in. I rather like sitting at the bar, as you can talk to the staff and get the lowdown on lots of things. Sensing our prodigious hunger, the friendly fellow behind the bar orders us some snacks as we browse the menu. The shocking quality of my snaps is also testament to a severe hunger; hands shaking, head dizzy… I apologise.
The Sweet Potato and Soba Ko Fries (£4) are sticks of delight. I couldn’t even wait to take a photo before diving in. These shards of gold with a crispy soba ko (buckwheat) coating don’t last long… They are catapulted into a new class by the addition of a kimchi mayo. This mayo is everything you want in a life partner and more. You’d marry it any day. I need it. Kindly, the waiter brings out some more to satisfy my dipping needs. Mr H is into it too. With mayo his favourite condiment, this rosy little dish of goodness becomes a star performer of the night.
Jerusalem artichoke rarely features on London menus. It seems to be an undiscovered treasure in the popular collective foodie conscience. It is a damn dreamboat in my book. The Jerusalem Artichoke Chopsticks with Truffle Ponzu Dip (£7), again showcase Kurobuta’s ability to combine interesting and possibly unexplored flavour combinations; the earthiness of the Jerusalems and truffle provide glorious bass notes to which the sharpness of the ponzu sings away over the top. Texture is a key player here too – splinters and crack and crunch.
Continuing on with surprising guest-star ingredients, the gorgonzola in the Japaense Mushrooms with Miso and Pinenuts (£9.75) certainly makes an entrance to notice. As a stand-alone dish, this is probably the least favourite. There is nothing wrong with it per se, however, it just seems lacklustre. Perhaps this would be better served in a bowl over rice. We were riceless. Rice is empty carbs. We are all about the proteins.
Tuna Sashimi Pizza (£11) is another exploration of texture; soft, nubile tuna on top of a crispy base. This dish is very pretty to look at and is a hit with the young chap on my left, who was eager to see if it lived up to the hype he had heard.
Tea Smoked Lamb with Smokey Nasu (Japanese eggplant) and Spicy Korean Miso (£15.50) is the kind of dish that garners giggles and looks of bemusement/horror when you’re still there gnawing the bone trying to extract every last scrap of flesh ten minutes later. I even had to go in for a final demolition of the bone before I was able to part with it. I love lamb. I love smoke. I love it when these things get together. I also especially love it when you still have a pot of kimchi mayo at your disposal. Yesss.
With a bowl of flamed edamame with sake, lemon, butter and Maldon salt (£4), we had reached the end of our order. We needed more. BBQ Kurobuta (a Japanese descendant of the Berkshire) Pork Ribs with Honey-Soy-Ginger Glaze (£14) are everything good ribs should be. Although their somewhat ambient temperature is of concern to some, to others, it is of little significance. The meat falls off the bone and the glaze is utterly amazing. Mr H and I are well aware that this glaze is too good to leave in a pool on the bottom of the dish, and still being hungry, see it fit to order BBQ Pork Belly in Steamed Buns with Spicy Peanut Sauce (£13) to mop up that awesome glaze. Fatty, fresh, pockets of joy. Just when you thought I couldn’t possibly take worse photos…
Job well done, all washed down by sake and lovely bright, hoppy pale ale (pale ale is Asian foods best friend).
Kurobuta is certainly worth a visit. Go hungry so you can explore the very unLondonesque menu and marvel in just how fine a dipping sauce can be.
