Stepping in to The Apothecary, 1878, is like stepping through a portal into 19th century Europe. The mahogany, the marble, the antiquated bottles for potions and tinctures. One almost expects Toulouse-Lautrec to turn around from one of the tables.
Visually stunning, Apothecary has already made a strong impression. I am salivating to taste the fare of this Hatted restaurant (one Hat from the Australian Good Food Guide).
We start with bite-sized toasts, piled high with yummies. I have the Sherry Peppers and White Anchovy Toast ($4). It is oozing with flavour. I cannot get enough of pungent, oily fish. I want another.
Natasha opts for the Goat’s Curd, Pink Peppercorn and Honey Toast ($4). We discuss our love of pink peppercorns. They are mysterious and cheeky and although aren’t technically peppercorns but fruit, the spicky kick-in-the-pants they bring to whichever foods they grace is a thing of beauty. Have you ever had dark chocolate with pink peppercorns? No? You haven’t lived.
I order the Lamb Backstrap, chargrilled with Creamed Split Pea, Smoked Almond, Lemon and Mint ($16). Although Apothecary has a sharing menu, a dish of this size is big enough for one as a main. I bite into it… It is not pink. Sadface. It is cooked all the way through and is a little dry. Oh no! The flavours are singing, and if the lamb were not overcooked this dish would be just so great. I make the decision to send it back. I feel at a restaurant of this calibre, it must have been a mistake, and that they wouldn’t be sending out non-pink lamb as standard procedure. The waitress agrees with me and says it usually is pink. Phew. One can never tell how an establishment is going to react to a complaint. I wasn’t rude, which is where many complaining people shoot themselves in the foot. If you’re going to be an arsehole about something, it usually does not go down well. Approach the situation with peace and often you will see results. The staff is lovely about this mistake, and before I know it, I have a backstrap in front of me that is rosy and juicy inside. Now this dish is great. The mint and citrus compliment the lamb so well and the creamed split pea offers a point of difference to the usual lamb accompaniments. It is slightly bitter, which is refreshing and marries the lamb’s sweetness perfectly.
Natasha feasts on Pork Neck and Hock Roulade with Kohlrabi, Apple Puree and Pickled Turnip ($16). It looks lovely and the meat is tender and flavoursome, the pickled turnip adding a welcome note of zing.
Needing a little something sweet to feel complete, Natasha chooses a little chocolate truffle from the selection of Steve ter Horst Chocolates on the menu. It is not until I see her face of ecstasy as she bites into it, that I realise there is no negotiating, and that I have to get a Fleur de Sel chocolate for myself. This is salted caramel at its best. It is bold and brazen. Now if only it were coated in Haigh’s chocolate instead of that Belgian rubbish!
The wine list at Apothecary is impressive with many unusual varietals offered by the glass. My South Australian Nebbiolo is ideal with lamb, soft and murmuring, but slightly dramatic too.
If we take the definition of an apothecary, one who dispenses medicine, then The Apothecary 1878 certainly dishes out the cure for whatever illness I was afflicted with that night. I feel amazing.
